You will often hear that Khao San Road is not like it used to be before all the tourists discovered it.  Well since backpackers and “budget” (cheap) travelers have taken it over, and other travelers have made the area a “destination”, no one can say this is the “real” Thailand, but it can be quite an adventure to visit.  It can be a lot of fun.

Since the early 1980’s, this street has been where backpackers congregate, lured initially by very cheap accommodations.  The cheap flop houses (sometimes the cheapest referred to as a “bed in a box”) are still there; along with better guest houses and hotels, and with the subsequent young laid back artsy people pouring into the area, shops catering to them have multiplied and flourished.   Now there are massage parlors, open air bars, street food, coffee houses, restaurants, convenience stores, currency exchange shops, Indian tailor shops offering fake Armani suits, 7-11’s, pharmacies selling things over the counter that are difficult to buy back home, travel & tour agencies, laundry shops, Muay Thai boxing gyms, optometrists, book shops, tattoo parlors, street stands selling Masters Degrees from well known Western Universities or drivers licenses from anywhere, expensive Swiss watches made in China, gem shops, and endless racks of designer label cloths made from bogus Chinese sweatshops.

Wandering the streets is a multitude of new arrival backpackers and a smattering of prostitutes many of which are lady boys, and lots of Westerners soaking in the scene, all forming a strange chaotic mixture.  In the late afternoon, the road is cut off to automobiles, but motor bikes and tuk-tuks can still drive on it.   It becomes a walking street, and people are walking around holding a beer without any problem, with loud music pouring out of the clubs and sometimes people dancing in the street.

Some of that chaos has now spilled on to adjoining small streets, forming a tourist destination area around Khao San.  It is probably not one of the safer areas of Bangkok, with the occasional mugging and pickpocketing (often perpetrated by foreigners, not Thais) and not the place for children, especially at night.  Despite that, it is still a very interesting place to spend one evening experiencing this amazing circus.  If you are actually going there to find a room for the night, I strongly advise going to one of the side streets, like Soi Rambuttri (which is actually parallel to Khao San Road), where it won’t be quite as noisy all night long.

For the visitor that just wants to take a look at this crazy area, understand that all the Thai merchants there are prepared to extract as much money from tourists as possible.  Like fish in a barrel (and you are the fish).  Practice the phrase, ”Mae aow khrup” (which translates to “No, I don’t have a need for your stuff, or tuk-tuk, or sex, or whatever you are offering.  Women should substitute the word “Ka” for “Khrup”).

You will be propositioned, shown fake designer clothing, shown picture post cards of a tour leaving tomorrow, maybe even offered some ganja (aka pot, but never accept…there’s a good chance they are working with some cops eager to extort money from remorseful criminals),  and hear sales pitches every couple of minutes.  Even if you are sitting in a restaurant, the sellers will be walking around the table to show you their plastic bracelets with off-color declarations of your virility or a lot more.  But this is also the place where you can find tall blond Swedish girls with fake dreadlocks, meet up with a lot of chatty travelers, and pick up the extra college degree you have been meaning to get since you dropped out of college.  Anything you can imagine could be a knocked off is available from street vendors here.  And it is also the best place to pick up a banana chocolate pancake or a coconut ice cream or freshly roasted bugs.  For those desperate for good ole’ American food, you also will find the familiar signs of MacDonald’s (a couple of them), KFC, Burger King, Pizza Hut, Starbucks and hundreds of 7-11 stores.

Going to Khao San Road in the evening is like dropping in on some wild street party.  Expect it to be noisy with loud music and too crowded, and just relax and enjoy the show.

The person that might consider actually booking a hotel room around here would be a young person that perhaps has not traveled very much and would feel comfortable being around lots of other Western young people that are in the same boat.  Maybe they are a little hesitant about jumping into a real Thai environment where there may be few familiar things.  For anyone else, I would say don’t stay around Khao San Road, but it is fun to go out one evening for a few hours to check this place out.

Understand clearly that if you buy anything on Khao San, you are likely paying more for it than if you bought it elsewhere.  It may look like a bargain, but believe me when I say it is not.  But there are few things here that you cannot find in many other places.  How about getting that fake press pass that would come in handy back home?   Naturally, there are those kids picking up a fake drivers license so they can get drunk back home.  And this is the place to get a tank top or T-shirt that has something a little wild and off color written on it that you can use for effect with the in-laws back home.

I guess if the nations of the world settled on an Anarchy form of non-governance, it would all look like Khao San Road.

And the most important warning:  don’t take a tuk-tuk out of here unless you are prepared to pay extra.  This is where the most vicious scamming tuk-tuk drivers wait for their prey.  You will be hustled and badgered by them, with promises to take you to some amazing places.  When you are ready to leave the area and return to Thailand, just walk a couple of blocks out of this vicinity and find a regular metered taxi.

Technorati Tags: backpacker Southeast Asia, Bangkok, Khao San Road, Khaosan, Thailand

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Volunteering to help others in faraway places is a very noble act. It also enhances life experiences for those that volunteer.  People are needed in every corner of the world to share their skills and talents to make life a bit easier for others, while it adds positively to a volunteer’s Karma.  Volunteers are surprised, however, that it often costs big money to participate in a volunteer program. 

Why should you pay money to work for free?  The volunteer broker industry counters that there are expenses that the local organizations simply cannot afford and this fee makes it possible for them to have volunteers come to assist.  Plus they have their “marketing costs”, which often is employing people to spam the internet (one such organization, Volunteering Solutions, spams my favorite Reddit groups with literally hundreds of postings trying to get customers). That makes sense, but there are many potential volunteers that are not able or willing to cough up a couple of thousand dollars to participate.

There is a huge number of complaints on the internet from participants about the service these volunteer brokers provide.  Many operate like any business, moving volunteers wherever they can in order to collect the fees, with little regard to enhancing the volunteering experience.  Fees of up to $3000 to volunteer for a couple of months is not uncommon.   And the actual cost of living in many of these places is very small (such as a remote Cambodian village), the accommodations are sparse and the communal meals are not great.

Anyone that is thinking about volunteering, should look online for reviews of the “volunteer hiring” companies.  Be skeptical of what these brokers tell you and verify their claims.  There is an earlier posting on this blog about how to evaluate a volunteering opportunity:  http://americanexpatchiangmai.com/evaluating-an-overseas-volunteer-program-in-thailand-southeast-asia-or-anywhere/

 Is there volunteering work available that does not require big money?  Yes, but it often requires that the volunteers have some valuable skills and can handle their own transportation costs to the area they would be working.  Usually there is little hand-holding, no airport pickups, no local transportation arranged. There are thousands of charities and organizations that are looking for help from passing travelers, and many are able to provide housing, meals and cover much of the living expenses for the volunteers.  The volunteer, however, is expected to be an independent traveler that can take care of themselves in an exotic environment.

The list below of ten sites with non-profits  requesting volunteers that cost very little or nothing to get involved with and help out:

1. Volunteer Work in Thailand -http://www.volunteerworkthailand.org/volunteer-thailand.php - a large list of non-profits are listed here from all over Thailand.  Most are free, while some request reimbursement for visa fees or medical insurance.  Almost all provide free housing and meals, and some actually pay the volunteers for the expenses they incurred in volunteering.
2. UN Volunteers – https://www.onlinevolunteering.org/en/index.html – The United Nations coordinates a volunteering program for experienced professionals.  If you are skilled in teaching, medicine, IT, writing or other skills, they have connections to organizations all over the world looking for help. There is no cost to volunteers, but almost all require volunteers to cover their own expenses.
3. Independent Volunteer http://www.independentvolunteer.org/ – a huge list of organizations seeking volunteers.  Some ask for small amounts of money to cover some of the expenses, like housing and visas, usually just a few hundred dollars for a couple of months.
4. True Travellers Society – http://www.truetravellers.org/ – Volunteer projects from all over the world, most have no cost and some with very small money requests.  Postings are made by volunteers about their experience which are very helpful reads.  Go the Link Page http://www.truetravellers.org/volunteer-work-abroad-program-list/ to connect directly to the websites of the charitable organizations.
5. WWOOF (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms)  www.wwoof.org – Board and lodging is offered in exchange for a day’s work on the farm. Stays available from one week to many years, and with thousands of hosts available in 53 countries. There’s an opportunity suitable for anyone looking for actual farm experience.
6. Se7en  – http://www.the7interchange.com/Home.aspx –   Listings of Free and Low Cost volunteer projects all over the world.  It costs a small amount for membership in the association.
7. International Volunteer HQ  – http://www.volunteerhq.org/ – Listing here from all over the world with low charges for the volunteer to cover basic costs.  Especially good for people that have never done overseas volunteering before with volunteer support, orientation, airport pick up, basic accommodations and meals covered.  To volunteer in Thailand, for instance, the cost is between $300 and $500 per month (varying by the length of stay).  The cost for each country varies according to the cost of living in each.
8. The Peace Corp – http://www.peacecorps.gov/  Open to US residents and sponsored by the US government, there are a variety of projects in healthcare, the environment and business development.  Those with educational or work experience are preferred.  To join the Peace Corp, there is a commitment of 27 months, and this will be a life changer.  After completion of the program, volunteers are given student loan assistance, “readjustment” compensation, and advantages in federal employment.  While in the program, you will be given a small allowance, all expenses are covered, a generous paid vacation, language training, with medical and dental insurance.  No costs whatsoever to the participants. For young college grads still figuring out the direction they want to go in life, this is a great place to launch their experience.
9. VAOPS – http://www.vaops.com/ This site lists many non-profits seeking volunteers.  Most have no fees, but require the volunteer to cover their room and board costs, which are often quite small.
10. Help Exchange  www.helpx.net – A site with lists of hosts — non-profits, farms  and small businesses — that are looking for help in exchange for room and board.  This includes farms, schools, hostels and small cafes.  There is a small fee to join the association and you cover your costs to get to the location.

Have experience volunteering?  Please share your experience, good and bad, in our comments.  And if you know of other sources that should be included in the above list, please send them to us via the comments to be added.

Technorati Tags: free volunteer jobs, Overseas volunteer, volunteer jobs available for no cost, volunteer vacation, volunteering in Asia, volunteering in Thailand

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The Naga Festival

Guest Posting by Angie Picardo

The Mekong River, in its path from central China to the ocean, forms border between Thailand and Laos as it flows southward.  The waters provide irrigation for crops, sustenance for fishing villages, and a cultural foundation for many Thai and Lao communities.  According to Thai legend, the Mekong also is home to a mythical creature, a giant serpent, called the Naga.

The Naga is a snake that is often suggested to have seven heads. Buddhist iconography popularly shows this beast as a dragon-like water serpent, and at times we see the Buddha depicted as standing upon its head. Once a year, for several days, people from all over Thailand and Laos make their way to the banks of the Mekong to watch the Naga Fire-balls, or often called the “Mekong Lights” (in Thai bung fai paya nak, บั้งไฟพญานาค) emerge from that river. This phenomena has been recorded and witnessed by many over centuries, and is as yet not adequately explained.  Some have suggested that it may be a UFO.  In any case, it is a “real” phenomenon to most people of the region.  Another theory is that methane gas trapped under the river bed finds just the right conditions this time of year, and is released and ignited upon surfacing.

As a visitor in the Nong Khai province in the Isaan region of northeast Thailand, I was excited about witnessing the Naga Festival (Bang Fai Phaya Nark Festival).  Excited villagers told me about flaming orbs that flew out of the water, flying hundreds of meters in the air.  These fireballs, they told me, came from the Naga.

The festival always occurs at the end of Buddhist Lent, on the 11th full moon of the lunar calendar.  That would be in October in Western calendars.

Even though I was excited about exploring the village, as a young woman, I was not allowed out of the accompaniment of my host family at any point.  So as I went to investigate the Molam music – traditional folk music of northeast Thailand – coming from an open-air storefront, my host-mom shadowed me the whole way there.

As the evening continued, and Thai villagers prepared food and supplies to walk down to the Mekong river bank, I managed to slip away from my host-mom for a few minutes.  As the sun began setting over the horizon – the lush Laotian landscape – I realized that I hadn’t showered in several days and ventured towards the river’s cool waters with several fellow foreigners.  We dipped in (fully clothed, of course!) when we heard yelling from Thai villagers, running towards us with panic in their voices.

We can swim, we told them, surprised at their severe reaction.  No, no! they replied (Mai, mai!)  We got out, confused, until someone helped us understand that the villagers were afraid that we’d be eaten by the Naga.  I laughed nervously, until I realized that they weren’t joking.

As the light fell, I joined some older women of the village who were weaving wreaths from palm fronds to form a circular candle-holder.  We made dozens, placing several candles within each.

After finishing the wreaths, we brought them to the water’s edge, where hundreds of villagers and visitors had now gathered.  Whole families sat together, lined ten deep along the length of the river.  We passed out the woven-palm candle holders, and in the darkness, lit the candles.  We then set the wreaths with lit candles down in the water, where the current quickly pushed them out towards the middle of the river.  The hundreds of flickering flames, covering the water in an orange glow, grew smaller as they drifted away from shore.

Soon after the wreaths were sent out, I noticed that some villagers upriver were pushing a wooden boat into the river.  Looking closer, I saw small flames licking at the sides of the boat.  Before long, the entire vessel was consumed in fire and cast an eerie glow upon the bank as it too floated towards the middle of the river.

We sat for several hours, watching for fireballs.  We saw no sign of the Naga that night, eventually returning (with my host-mom) back to our house.  Maybe next year!

Angie Picardo is an American writer at NerdWallet, a website where you can find advice on retirement planning.

See also:

There is a river which shoot fireball in to air in Thailand – Unbelievable Facts.com

Naga fireballs of Mekong – Wondermondo

Technorati Tags: Isaan, Laos, Mekong, Naga, Naga Fesitval, Thailand

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1.  Don’t raise your voice in any confrontational way.  It is in the Thai culture when there are disputes to discuss it in a low tone that is not loud.  If there is a problem with a bill at the hotel or you received bad service from the waitress, it is important to speak slowly and in a normal tone.  If you do it the typical way things are settled back home, with a loud voice, pointing fingers and maybe with a few choice words that should never have been spoken, you will not get the results you want, you will embarrass yourself and you are likely to have the Thai person you are screaming at turn their back in disgust and walk away.
2. Don’t shake hands.  Except for a business meeting with mainly Westerners, don’t shake hands and even in those cases, don’t initiate it.  That ritual is based on some ancient European custom to prove you don’t have a weapon, and Thailand does not have that kind of history.  People wai each other, and the junior status level should wai first.  A wai is done by pressing your hands together like in a prayer, with a slight bow.   So if you run across an older guy that has a higher status, you should wai him.  Most others will probably wai you, and you should familiarize yourself with social protocol.  When you get a wai from a store clerk or parking lot attendant, just do a little nod of head.  Some visitors return a wai too strongly and it makes foreigners look a little silly to Thais.
3. Don’t point upwards or towards a person when calling over a waitress or service person.  That is regarded as extremely rude (think equivalent to the middle finger salute in the US).  Beckon service from a waiter or clerk or anyone with your palm down an fingers straight with an up and down movement.  When hailing a taxi, it is best to keep your hand horizontal, with fingers facing down.
4. Show great respect towards Buddhism and Thai temples (wats).  When visiting a wat, dress conservatively (preferably in white).  Women in particular should wear long skirts or trousers (no knees and shoulders uncovered).  Women must never touch a monk.  Shoes must come off before entering a wat, and never sit so that your feet are pointed towards the Buddha.  Do not point at or touch a person’s head.  Speak softly.
5. Show the greatest respect possible for the King and the Royal Family.  The King represents Thailand, and is considered the father of the nation.  Never say anything that might be interpreted as negative towards any member of the Royal family.  If you drop a coin and it is rolling away, don’t stop it by stomping on it.  The King’s likeness is on that coin, and that would be disrespectful.  In public markets and movie theaters or just about anywhere where people gather, the national anthem is played in the evening and mornings and you should stop, hands to side and don’t talk.
6. Always take your shoes off before entering someone’s house. You may have to do this for some shops as well. As a rule, look to see if there are shoes outside a shop house.
7. Don’t throw anything at anyone.  This is the highest level of rudeness.  This includes things like throwing a stack of papers on a desk, or throwing some Baht currency at a clerk, or tossing a book to a friend.
8. Understand differences in a Thai response.  A Thai never wants to say “no”.  So you might ask a store clerk if they have something you are looking for, and they may answer “Yes, but we have this…” said with an insecure little smile. It is not ignorance on their part and don’t be offended, and they not simply incompetent.  Just realize that a Thai is trying to be polite by not saying “no”, which is a very uncomfortable thing for them to say.  In a similar way, Thais will “lie” about little things to avoid having to say they do not know the answer.  If you ask for directions, you may get false directions from a Thai to avoid having to say they don’t know where it is you are going.  Relax about this.
9. Don’t do drugs in Thailand.  If a friendly guy offers you a joint in a bar or out on a full moon party, there is a good chance he is setting you up.  There is a big commission for him, and a world of problems for you.  This is one place on Earth where you should definitely just say no.
10. Avoid kissing in public. It is considered impolite. You may likely be arrested for performing sexual acts in public and on the beach.
11. Don’t smoke indoors. This is illegal. Don’t throw your cigarettes in the street. You will face fines of 2,000 baht or higher.
12. Don’t leave your chopsticks in the bowl, it symbolizes death and is very bad luck.

There are other customs, of course, and you don’t have to worry too much about them.  It is always a good idea to  watch what others do.

Got more mistakes a visitor to Thailand should avoid?  Please share them in the comments.

Technorati Tags: do's and don'ts for Thailand, etiquette in Thailand, Thai customs

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The Thai Lanna Resort – Chiang Mai

One such place that I recently stayed at is the Thai Lanna Resort, about 12 kms (6 mi.) south of central Chiang Mai in the Hang Dong district, ten minutes away from the Chiang Mai Airport, and I give it a thumbs up recommendation.  This resort was recently built by a Brit expat and his Thai wife, Anthony and Panida.  Anthony is also an English language teacher at one Chiang Mai’s prestigious private schools.  Anthony is a well educated published author that has traveled and stayed in much of the world, and is a good resource of information for potential expats.  His lovely wife, Panida is a wealth of good local information and on Thai culture.  She also happens to be a great cook of both Thai and Western dishes.  This team is very helpful in getting the most out of a long term stay in Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand.

It has always been my recommendation for those considering retirement or long term residence in Chiang Mai to come to the area and immerse oneself as much as possible in how life is living in this city.  This guesthouse is an ideal venue for that.  Or for those on a temporary business or educational assignment in Northern Thailand — perhaps a buying trip for importers of Thai products — a serviced apartment guest house is definitely the way to go.  The Thai Lanna Resort Guest House happens to be located very close to the major wholesale buying areas of Northern Thailand, such as Baan Tawai  (for more info on Baan Tawai, take a look at this earlier story about this market).

Many longer term Serviced Apartment Guest Houses, like the Thai Lanna Resort, are located right in the residential areas where expats are living, so that after a period of time you will get a complete understanding of how everyday living would be for a Chiang Mai expat.  And it is very affordable.  A luxury room at this guest house is less than USD $3.50 per day (no, that’s not a misprint).

The Thai Lanna Resort Guesthouse is brand new, and each room is in perfect condition with AC, private bath, Wifi, cable large screen TV, fridge, security and parking.  The community the guest house is in has a swimming pool and gardens.  The guesthouse takes care of housekeeping, and can arrange for transportation and tours, car or motorbike rentals or just about any other particular need you might have during your stay. If you are in Chiang Mai to investigate finding your own apartment or house rental, you are within the best part of the city to find it, with gated communities all around the area of this guesthouse.  The owners can suggest to you the best real estate people to help you in your home search.

Greg having breakfast at the Thai Lanna Resort

Complete information and reservations can be made on their website at www.thailannaresort.com.  If you mention that you learned about the resort from my blog, the first two nights are on me (be sure to let me know you have made reservations so I can credit your stay at the guest house).

The Thai Lanna Resort has several styles of rooms available.  I stayed in the Presidential Suite with a full American kitchen, and if you plan on buying some of the local food in the Thai markets, I recommend this room:

The Presidential Suite – Large suite with full kitchen, dining area, large TV, Wifi, etc., etc. – basic accommodations 7000Baht per month (about USD $241).

A Luxury Room – Large room with private bath, fridge, large TV, etc. – basic accommodation 3000Baht per month (about USD $103).

They also have available a two bedroom “Maisonette Suite” (two levels) and a studio apartment.  These are the basic rental prices, and you can add services to this as you need them, such as a full English breakfast (which is big enough to keep you going most of the day, in typical English style).   You can have mail service and assistance with almost any special needs as it comes up.

One caveat that should be mentioned:  guest houses like the Thai Lanna Resort have a very limited number of rooms, so it would be important to make your reservations and have a deposit made as soon as possible to hold the room.  They can easily sell out.

Staying at a serviced apartment guest house like the Thai Lanna Resort is certainly the best way to stay in Chiang Mai for a longer period.  It is going to save you a lot of money and give you the real Chiang Mai living experience.

Technorati Tags: Chiang Mai guest house, Chiang Mai hotel, Chiang Mai serviced apartment, Northern Thailand accommodations, Thai Lanna Resort

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Food from the Heart

a guest posting by Angie Picardo

I’d eaten “local food” before, but this was on a whole new scale.  Our lunch, eaten in a picturesque bungalow in the middle of Petch Thongnoi’s sun-drenched rice paddy, all came from within a fifteen-yard radius.

Bananas, fresh fish, rice, bean pods, bamboo, sawalots, and papaya came from the backyard; several types of chili peppers, lemongrass, and onions from the front.  A feast, a cornucopia, performance art – Petch killing and gutting the fish with one artful swing of a knife as we roasted them over the fire, on a stick, like marshmallows.  Our hands were soon covered in sticky and spicy food, our arms intertwined as we unabashedly reached and delved into the communal dishes at the center of our seated circle.

Petch punctuated the end of the meal as he rolled up the giant place-mat banana leaf, scooping up the food scraps, and tossed it directly into the rice paddy water.  Everything from the rich Thai soil, and everything back to it!

In America, how often is lunch such a magical, or even particularly memorable, experience?   As a graduate of UC Berkeley, coming from a land of fast food and drive-thru’s, my experience in a quiet northeastern Thai farming village was a major change of pace.  Living with the Thongnoi family (Petch, Nusaan, and their granddaughter Agnoon) revealed how one can exist mindfully, lovingly, and sustainably, in even the simplest daily routines. Their life revolves around the communal consumption of food, and around the cultivation of an incredible variety of plants – growing literally everywhere.

My host parents’ ethos is simple:  “If you grow plants with love, and harvest with happiness, the plants will grow well.  This is why it is important to be happy in all things.”  This mindfulness during gardening transcends the act of merely raising crops.  True to their Buddhist beliefs in self-awareness and moral action, they live their faith daily, emanating an undeniable warmth and wisdom.

Almost all farmers in Thailand switched to chemical agriculture at some point as the seemingly unstoppable Green Revolution and its chemical fertilizers spread across the globe.  Members of the current reactionary organic movement have seen the environmental and human costs of planting mono-cultures riddled with chemicals, providing artificially high yields of a single crop for export.

They recognize that depleting the soil of its resources at escalating rates and that selling produce permeated with toxins to consumers are all dishonest and immoral ways to share food.  As the villagers of Yasothorn reiterated, to grow food organically, one must have the love and the heart to do it.  Their concern for their family’s health follows the Buddhist belief that change begins with the individual. 

They grow everything they need, consume only cell phone minutes (to stay in touch with grown children in Bangkok), have no debt, are mindful of their bodies, and get great pleasure from providing good food to others.  Nothing they do is radical, but may hold many answers to the problems plaguing contemporary Thai society.  The pastoral life of organic farmers like them across the Isaan region provides a model of living their faith by growing food mindfully with love for themselves, the environment, and the consumer.

In a country that is 95 percent Buddhist, what does the day-to-day faith of its average citizen look like?  How does a Thai layperson reconcile the goal of being committed to renouncing the material world (the goal of Buddhism) while being firmly rooted in it?

I think it looks a lot like the Thongnoi family. They grow everything they need, consume only cell phone minutes (to stay in touch with grown children in Bangkok), have no debt, are mindful of their bodies, and get great pleasure from providing good food to others.  Nothing they do is radical, but may hold many answers to the problems plaguing contemporary Thai society.  The pastoral life of organic farmers like them across the Isaan region provides a model of living their faith by growing food mindfully with love for themselves, the environment, and the consumer.

One old man shopping at the Yasothorn Organic Farmer’s Market told us that he heard about the fledgling organic movement from his local wat, or temple.  On the wall was printed the Five Precepts (abstain from killing, false speech, sexual misconduct, stealing, and taking sense altering substances), and included, almost as a footnote, a simple encouragement to eat organically grown food.

Now that I’m back in America, a Filipino-American woman in a city full of modern conveniences, I find myself missing the Isaan village.  I’ve changed in more than a few ways, and since returning I’ve tried to eat local, organic food as much as possible.  I can relate to the farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture – having lived in their shoes – and believe strongly in the benefits that come from being mindful of one’s food.

As my host mom Nusaan said – quite profoundly – “Food is the number one issue in the world.”

Angie Picardo is a writer for Nerdwallet,  a personal finance website dedicated to helping consumers travel meaningfully and achieve retirement success.  She is a recent graduate of University of California in Berkeley.  Feel free to Ask Angie any questions about Thailand in the comments.

My Best Thai Recipes – Discover the uniqueness that is Thai cuisine – Easy cooking

Technorati Tags: organic food, Thai food, Thai lunch, Thailand dinner

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Have a great vacation in the Land of Smiles (plus change in your pocket) for having your dental work in Thailand.

OK, it is true I am no fan of the dental business in the USA.  Their rates are astronomical.   A lot of people may not see all those high rates because they have dental insurance.  Since I have always been employed by myself, I have avoided this insurance expense for my employees (including me), so I have always seen and paid my dental bills in full.  Wow.  The costs for dental treatment in the US between 1998 and 2008 increased at a higher rate than medical care, and far exceeded the increases in inflation.  Dental insurance costs have skyrocketed over the last decade, and many companies are no longer making this part of the employee benefits.  So now more Americans, like most self employed people, are seeing their total dental costs, with most or all coming out of pocket.  (reference: The American Way of Dentistry – Slate).

A typical dental office in the US has one dentist (sometimes two, but not often), and that dentist hops from patient to patient (sometimes working on three or four patients at the same time) to maximize income (your money).  That one dentist is presumed to be an expert in every kind of dental work:  crowns, filings, cleanings, X-rays, tooth pulling, and extraction of all available funds from the pockets of patients.

Thailand dentist offices usually work on a different concept.  A Thai dental office (clinic or sometimes a “dental hospital”) will generally have several dentists.  In the Bangkok dental hospital that I personally have had work done, there are 13 doctors of dentistry.  One will be an expert on root canals, another on crowns, another on simple filings, and on and on.  As a patient at a good Thai dental hospital or clinic, you are likely to be involved with two or three different dentists that work in their specialty.  Thai dental clinics are as modern as any typical American dental office, or better.  From what I have seen in my non-scientific study getting my teeth fixed is that Thai dental clinics have more modern equipment and seem much higher on the technology scale than your typical little American dental office.  The quality of work in Thailand at a good dental clinic is on par or superior to the work you get in the US in my opinion (and from everyone else that I know that has work done in Thailand).

“Trust Me, I belong to the American Dental Association”

In the US, you will pay pretty much the same high price no matter where you go.  That’s because the American Dental Association cartel suggests (sets) the fees dentists should charge, and all dentists seem to listen to their cartel leaders.  And most dentists only work four days a week (they don’t need to work full time with their exorbitant incomes).  Remember, it was this association, the American Dental Association, that unethically pushed fluoride in US water systems, giving children learning disorders, a greater cancer risk, more tooth decay, possible brain damage, thyroid problems, bone damage, possibly kidney damage, and a host of other problems. (Why hasn’t the American Dental Association apologized for the damage they have caused America?)  Definitely don’t trust this mafia-like organization that sets the prices your American dentist can squeeze out of you.

According to the American Dental Association, in 2006 the median income for a dental general practitioner was $180,000. That’s a whisker below the median annual wage for primary care physicians ($182,000), and on an hourly basis it’s higher (because dentists work fewer hours). The median for a dental specialist was $296,640. Source.

In Thailand, the prices for dental work generally run about 10% to 30% of the costs in the US.  This is not an exaggeration.  This means, if you are about to pop $6000 to your local American dentists for some simple repair job on your teeth (which seems to be what costs generally run for typical dental work in the US), it would cost about $900 to $1800 for the same work in Thailand.  Many Thai dental clinics have their price sheets printed right on their website, so if you know what needs to be done, you can get a good estimate right on your computer before you go.  So with this example of a $6K job in the US, if you came to Thailand to do your dental work, you would be saving about $4200 to $5100 by taking a trip to this side of the world.  And the way tourist prices go in Thailand, that gets you a luxurious vacation, with money left over.

Of course, it’s not unusual for a patient having dental work done in the USA to rack up bills of $10,000, 14,000 or even more.  Dental work in the US is very expensive, and it is my contention that it should not be that way (but it is).

Dental Implants – This is a wonderful procedure if you get it done right and you are not put into the poor house after having it done.  A single dental implant in the US can cost $6000.  The same procedure can cost $1000 in Thailand.  Now if you are going to need a half a dozen of these things, it makes the price in the US available to only the 1%.  But if you had six implants done in Thailand, you would be saving around $30,000!

Even if you have dental insurance in the US, there is a limitation to how much they will pay out in a year, usually $1000-$2000.  Nowadays, with the extortionist rates charged by American dentists, it is easy to go over that and you end up paying 100% of anything above your limit.

How to do it.

First, locate a good Thai dental clinic.  There are plenty of Thai dentists all over the country, but the best are located in Bangkok.  Also, because Bangkok has many dental offices, they are more price competitive than other cities.

There are also good dental clinics in Phuket, Chiang Mai and other Thai cities, but my personal opinion is that they are not quite up to the level as Bangkok Dental Clinics (and I live in Chiang Mai and have gone to dental offices in my city).  You will still save big money in these other cities, and it may be a better venue for a vacation, so if that is what you have in mind, you should check these locations out as well.

Fortunately, the internet is very helpful.  Here’s a good place to start:  Thailand Dental Clinic List by Thai Travel Tips.  One of the best sources is the Dental Departures website (click on the banner below), and they can connect you with almost any good Bangkok Dental Clinic

Second, once you have been connected to a Thai dental clinic, contact the dental office via email and describe the treatment you need (or what is wrong) and request an estimate.  English is spoken in almost any well-established dental office in Bangkok, and most offices have  a lot of overseas customers, so your email is likely to be answered promptly.

Third, set your appointment up according to your holiday vacation availability, and start planning for a great trip.  Bangkok is a very big city, so you will want to find many levels of accommodations at somewhat close to the dentists.  It is easy to find a first rate 4-star hotel for less than $75 a night.  Outside of the scheduled dental appointments, plan a excursions to some of the great Thailand destination cities, like Phuket, Chiang Mai or the tropical paradise island of Koh Samui.

Are you a bit skeptical about the legitimacy of dental offices in Thailand? And further nervous about traveling to a distant exotic place like Bangkok?                      I understand completely,  and that is why the Dental Departures organization is a good way to go.  This site lists almost all of the established places with direct links to the dental office website and customer reviews and testimonials from Westerners that have gone there.  Booking a hotel in Bangkok is very easy, and the best starting place is at Trip Advisor.   Bangkok is loaded with hotels of every price range, but generally at almost every level it is half or less of what it is for comparable accommodations cost in the US.

And, of course, there are lots of shopping and amazing vacation destinations all over the City.  With your savings, it will be as if the vacation is absolutely FREE.

Then, after you have had your dental treatment and a great vacation, you will truly have a smile and a fatter wallet.  You can make this trip to the dentist the best one you have ever had.

Technorati Tags: dental holiday, dental work Thailand, Dentists Thailand, Thai dentistry

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This is extremely good news, and I did not expect it.

As Senator Paul states:  “The intent of this law was to prevent tax evasion by increasing access to overseas bank accounts held by U.S. citizens. However, any law enforcement benefits have been vastly outweighed by the deleterious effects of FATCA on economic growth and the financial privacy of Americans.”

For those that are not familiar with FATCA, it requires financial institutions — banks, trust companies, bond brokers, almost every financial institution — anywhere in the world outside of the US to register with the US Internal Revenue Service (IRS) and provide financial information on any US citizen that has an account that had a value at any time during the year of $10,000 or more.  It has required all US citizens with a bank account or any other financial assets that reached $10,000 or more any time during a year to file a report with the IRS about those assets.  This applies even if there are only several smaller accounts that total up to $10,000 or more.  If a financial institution failed to comply with the FATCO rules, they would be severely punished by confiscation of funds that were transferred in the future through the United States.  And the financial penalties to Americans that did not comply were also extremely severe.

The net result of the FATCA rules has been a reluctance of foreign banks to do business with Americans.  In some areas, banks will not open any account by an American.  Singapore, for instance, does this, but there are other areas as well.

Many countries have protested the invasion into the internal affairs of their country by a US tax agency.  Some countries, including China and Russia, have flatly refused to cooperate in any way and have worked to rally other countries to stand up to the US Internal Revenue Service.

Some countries (most of the West European countries) have only participated if there was an intergovernmental agreement on the part of the US to report any of their citizens that may have any money in the US.  The Treasury Department of the US Federal Government has made these agreements with foreign governments without the consent of the United States Congress, which is in violation of the US Constitution, and is costing US citizens  billions of dollars in compliance costs by the banks, which will be passed on to their customers (and taxpayers, since US banks are primarily supported by bailouts).

The FATCA rules were initiated to stop tax evasion, but have proven to be a total financial and diplomatic disaster.  It is evil legislation, and it is great news that at least one member of Congress is going after it, and we need to show our support for him in every way possible.  This is a very bold step against the most evil agency of the Federal Government (the IRS), and every overseas American should let this senator know that he has our support.

Websites to Watch:

http://www.repealfatca.com/  Repeal FATCA!

http://isaacbrocksociety.ca/  The Isaac Brock Society

http://americansabroad.org/ American Citizens Abroad

You should know that there are groups that oppose the stance against FATCA.  The headline for this same proposal of Senator Paul by Accounting Today (and picked up by many liberal blogs) is “Rand Paul Blamed for Blocking FATCA:”  You know what side the accounting industry is on.  America spends more each year preparing their income taxes than they spend in total on American cars and trucks.  These scoundrels are putting themselves in the same boat as the legal industry to make compliance difficult (and expensive) for Americans anywhere.

08 May 2013: U.S Credit Unions Endorse Sen Rand Paul’s Bill to Repeal Portions of FATCA - Repeal FATCA.com

16 May 2013 Investors Daily – Limiting Foreign Access To Your Bank Accounts

By Senator Rand Paul

Earlier this week, I introduced a bill that would reform the Foreign Account Tax Compliance Act (Fatca).

Originally tacked on as the “pay-for” to a 2010 bill to incentivize hiring, Fatca was intended to crack down on overseas tax evasion.

That’s not been the reality, however.

Instead, the Treasury Department has chosen to manipulate Fatca to establish an international financial snooping scheme that violates the Constitution, disregards the mutual respect of sovereignty among nations, increases the national debt, and threatens America’s economic competitiveness.

Fatca, with little fanfare, made sweeping changes to privacy laws.

It required every non-American financial institution — banks, credit unions, pension funds, stock and investment firms, etc. — to register directly with the U.S. Internal Revenue Service (IRS) and agree to provide specified financial data on the accounts of any “U.S. Person.”

What came next was all too predictable: rather than expose themselves to Fatca’s new withholding penalties, these overseas financial institutions simply began shutting down the accounts of their American depositors and selling off American investments.

However, once this initial coercion effort by the IRS began to backfire, the Treasury Department decided to work around the problem by cutting deals with foreign governments instead of each individual foreign financial institution.

These deals, known as “intergovernmental agreements,” are not nearly as innocuous as many Fatca supporters would have you believe. Indeed, they are a significant departure from normal standards and practices.

Before, the IRS would exchange financial data with overseas revenue services once some sort of “suspicious activity” signaling tax evasion had been identified.

The intergovernmental agreements that Treasury is now negotiating (again, under the guise of Fatca) would erode this already dubious standard even further by agreeing to share any and all information that “may be relevant” to an investigation.

This phrase — “may be relevant” — actually replaces the suspicious activity standard with no standard at all, and provides no protections regarding what information may be exchanged with a foreign government.

In other words, the Treasury Department, without the consent and authority of Congress, will force U.S. financial institutions to provide the bank account information of private customers to foreign nations upon demand.

This is a blatant betrayal of privacy, and it must not stand. These intergovernmental agreements automatically assume that any individual who holds an asset in a foreign institution is trying to evade taxes.

The IRS cannot be allowed to betray the confidence of the American people in this way without (at the very least) the assent of their elected representatives in Congress.

Technorati Tags: Dr. Paul, fatca, Rand Paul, Senator Paul

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A Guest Post by Gavin Whittaker

It seems as if the most beautiful destinations in the world are often the most dangerous. According to an article in the Guardian, exotic locations like Thailand, Australia, Czech Republic and Greece tend to be the places where tourists will most likely find trouble. Whether it’s the difference in culture or economies, it’s essential for travellers to get in the know and in control.

When you’re in a new, exotic landscape that feels like paradise, you might not stop to consider what could go wrong. The sad truth is, however, many things can and do. There are many precautions you can take to ensure that you stay safe while on holiday and it doesn’t hurt to prepare yourself in the case that something does go wrong. Newspapers and travel website often publish articles about what to do in a crisis. With a little bit of reading you can leave with a lot more confidence.

When cash is king, carry plastic

Next to your personal safety, the main thing you need to be concerned with while abroad is keeping your money safe. Exotic destinations might mean that travel cards are out, but it’s wise to load up a couple of prepaid cards with some home currency regardless. Most banks will let you draw from an account containing either pounds, dollars or Euros. It will simply be a matter of getting them to give you a decent rate of exchange. While it might be a costly fall back, it might prove the safest.

Credit and prepaid cards are a good idea in the situations where you can use plastic, but always be wary of vendors taking the machine out of sight, and always protect your pin when entering it. Scams abound in every city and as long as you keep your card in view and your pin protected your money should stay safe. If you’re using credit, make sure your credit limit has been reduced to accommodate only what you’re likely to spend on your trip.

Sometimes keeping your money safe costs money. By drawing out little amounts and often, you will incur higher fees and charges, but you will prevent the loss or theft of large amounts of cash. Keep your various cash stashes and plastic cards stored in a variety of separate locations, so that if you are robbed or mugged, you won’t be left in a pinch.

Storing valuables

Find out where you can secure your valuables and travel documents, you don’t want to carry more with you than necessary, but neither should you leave anything of value in accommodation with dubious security standards. It’s a good plan to pack a range of small combination padlocks or even a flexible bike lock.

Only leave possessions in a room if you have a lockable drawer or cupboard, and always lock the main door. Many hotels have safety deposit boxes, either in-room or at reception, and will hold items for you under lock and key. However secure you believe things are, nothing replaces a comprehensive insurance policy.

Pickpockets

The secret to avoid becoming a target for pickpockets, is to look like you’ve got nothing to steal. While it might be nice to look glamorous on holidays, in exotic, often poorer countries, you will simply attract unwanted attention. Don’t flash around expensive jewellery, watches and gadgets, or even cheap ones, anything above what is commonly on show will mark you out as a target for opportunists. Ensure wallets and valuable documents, if you must carry them at all, are not visible or stored in easily accessible pockets, and use camera straps and cross-body bags with multiple fastening closures. If you are wearing layers, a bag or purse can be worn between them for extra securing.

Local scams

Speak to reputable hotel staff, trusted locals and tourist offices regarding the newest scams you might fall prey to. Although you may think you’re hard to dupe, it’s all too easy to be fooled in an unfamiliar place with alien customs. Scams can range from arguments over payment for taking up a ‘service’ you didn’t agree to, to taxi drivers working on commission from venues and claiming them as individual recommendations, to major fraud that could damage you financially for life.

The best advice is never to accept the offer or help from anyone who approaches you. When people offer help and advice, most of the time they’ve got a hidden agenda, and whether it’s as harmless as taking you on a detour to a mate’s shop it could end up being dangerous. In an article for leading travel site Lonely Planet, Mark Broadhead sums up this point with the only slightly tongue in cheek advice to never ‘trust strangers who wear turtle neck/polo neck tops’.

Insurance

Check, check and check again that you have comprehensive insurance for not only possessions, but your own healthcare and wellbeing. In case of emergency, many countries will not offer treatment to uninsured individuals, and you may need to fund immediate transport home. Costs of medical assistance can be astronomical and quickly spiral out of control. Take heed, read and understand your policy, and please ensure you are insured for all eventualities.

If you find that you have been robbed, it is essential to your insurance claim that you report the incident immediately with authorities and get the paperwork to prove it. An official report will help to ensure you can make a successful claim on your return home.

Gavin Whittaker is a finance journalist with years of experience. For Gavin, topics like explaining the advantages of currency cards, presenting new technologies for credit card safety and analyzing the financial markets are essential to managing your money. Gavin recommends Tuxedoprepaid.com, a leader in the field of currency cards and prepaid technologies, especially when you’re traveling. Read Gavin’s insight on these issues at a wide variety of blogs, online- and print-magazines.

Technorati Tags: crime in Thailand, Safe to travel in Thailand, safety in Bangkok

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We found the perfect house to live in retirement.  Paid cash for the place plus have no property taxes.  Live a pretty easy life, better in the material things than I thought I would end up with.  Have a decent newish car and the weather is good where we are living.  We are retired and have few responsibilities and obligations to worry about as we are settled in the Southeast Asian tropical kingdom.  

Now I no longer wear a watch because I don’t want to know what time it is.  That’s a big adjustment from a time when every minute counted and I would not waste a drop of it during a workday.  I shave about once every three days now, only when it gets a little too scratchy for me.  I wear sandals on my feet and can’t remember the last time I polished my shoes.  I have settled in. 

In this part of the world, if a retired couple can count on an income of about $1500 a month or more, they can live comfortably with a nice home, car and plenty of food.  In most of the US, they could probably still get by but on a lower scale for sure.

When we first came to live in Chiang Mai, there was a natural excitement.  We tested out a lot of strange new restaurants, visited all the tourist sites several times, found new places to shop, and took thousands of pictures.  We met other expat couples, many younger than us with different needs as they still were managing a growing family.  Other retired expats come here  from all over the world, and interacting with their different perspectives are quite interesting, but then after some time we wonder why they don’t see things the way we do (but of course they spent their entire lives in a different place than we did).

We found a lot of expats spend a lot of time watching satellite TV from back home.  Some spend a lot of time playing on Facebook to keep attached to the people back in the USA.  Many seldom leave the neighborhood (or moobaan, a gated community of homes most expats live in around Chiang Mai, or else they might live in a condo apartment building).  We all had very simple activities that would have been the same if we had stayed back in the States.  We were all hitting the reality wall of retirement.

The routine details of everyday life in remote, exotic Chiang Mai seemed nearly impossible to completely manage when we first arrived have been pretty much managed now.  The nervousness that we would wake up to everyday about how we were going to be able to do something has worn off.  We know how to live here now, and some of the mysteries and exoticness have revealed themselves and are not so much a mystery or so exotic.  There are fewer unknowns and unfamiliar situations.  A routine has been established, and we are seeing the same difficulties of coping with simple retirement that everyone has no matter where they live.

The situation we have is exactly what we were looking for in the first place.  We wanted a cheaper, better version of what we had at home, and we found it.  We shed a lot of baggage when we left the US to live in Thailand.  All retired expats have a very content feeling once they realize they have succeeded in their quest.  Finding a good place to live — one materially much better than what they could have back home and with longer, nicer, lazier sunny days all affordable with an income that probably will not grow — is what we all strive for as we approach this age.  There are a lot of places in the world that could fit the bill for most, and we chose Thailand which was a good decision for us.

A few expats arrive in Chiang Mai full of enterprising ideas and put them into action with a restaurant or a shop or a little hotel.  This adds a lot of interesting flavor to the city with such an international diversity of small businesses here.  But eventually even those entrepreneurs will start slowing down and settle into a regular living routine here.  The adrenaline rush gets a little weaker.

An expat coming to Chiang Mai for retirement (or any other exotic environment, for that matter) needs to have realistic expectations.  Many — perhaps most — expect that the very act of moving overseas will change everything in their lives, to end up completely different from the person they were back in their home country.  And after the adjustment time has completed they wake up to see that they are the same people, living life much the same way as before but now in a more colorful location, they are dismayed.

The truth is that after a long period of adjustment, for some it is just a few months and for others maybe a couple of years, they have finally figured things out in their new country well enough that life has become routine in the new environment.  When we and all the other expats here moved from their homelands, they left a lot of undesirable baggage, but we did not change ourselves.  We are the same people that we were back home.  We are not one person in Fresno (or wherever home may be) and wake up in Chiang Mai the next day as a different person.

With that all being said, there is something about retirement and about moving overseas that opens up, and it may appear to be new.  No longer encumbered by the routines built over many years back home, little things about ourselves start to reveal themselves.  Maybe we are really a writer or an artist or a farmer or teacher that never had a chance to blossom when we were striving to pay the bills for many years while the family was maturing.  For instance, when I was doing my jobs in business at a younger age, I never imagined that I could write and publish my thoughts on a blog (this one).  I still feel the pangs of guilt occasionally because of my obvious laziness (translate laziness to mean not stressing out on a job making money).  My always-ambitious wife is finding her niche in the garden in Chiang Mai, now getting involved in hydroponics and unusual fruit trees (we may have to grab an extra small piece of land that she can grow her little farm on).  Others we know have become photographers and chefs and painters.  Some have found that their intense interest in Asian Art turns into an enterprise, locating product to export back to the US for relatives there to sell.

Some expats become totally immersed in the culture of their new homeland, learning the language to near fluency (which in Thailand is a real challenge for native English language speakers), studying the history of their new environment or the predominant religion (which in Thailand is Buddhism).  These are all major steps beyond the routine, and perhaps over time the long-term resident does become a different person.

Sometimes I just marvel at the different changes we all go through as we walk down that path of life.

Please share with others in the comments how you may have coped or are learning to cope with maturity in a strange new environment.

Technorati Tags: moving overseas, retirement in Asia, retirement in Thailand, retirement overseas

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